All going swimmingly

It's been a while since I posted, thankfully because there has been no more bad news!

I have had the tank and mudguards repainted to the original design by Jayson Dowson (Jayson D Designs) who did an absolutely flawless job, thoroughly recommended.

I have also done a bit of work on the primary chain side - that is the chain that transfers the power from the crankshaft to the clutch and gearbox. These old Triumphs have a cunning design where the clutch, gearbox input shaft, gearbox output shaft and front drive sprocket are all co-axial which take a bit of time to get your head around! 

The clutch

The gearbox

The primary chain turns the clutch outer basket (clutch part 5), and unless the clutch lever is pulled in this torque is transferred through the clutch plates (14 & 15) via a rubber cush drive (6, 10) to the clutch inner hub (12), which is bolted to the end of the gearbox input shaft (gearbox part 1). The drive then passes from the input shaft to a separate parallel layshaft (11) then back to a sleeve running around the input shaft (3). The gear you have selected controls which of the four pairs of gears are active, the rest will be slid out of engagement. The sleeve passes through the gearbox case and is splined onto the front sprocket (12), which turns the drive chain which finally turns the back wheel via the rear sprocket. Simple!

Modern bikes tend to have the crankshaft geared directly onto the clutch outer, with the clutch inner directly connected to the gearbox input shaft. There's no layshaft, and the drive sprocket is mounted on the gearbox output shaft. This makes much more sense to me, although it is less compact than Mr Turner's cunning design.

The clutch turned out to be in good nick, the plates were nice and straight, the springs still strong and the roller bearings all in spec. The primary chain and sprockets looked good too, but the issue was someone had let it get loose and the slack had eroded some parts including one of the alternator mounting bolts and the grommet where the alternator cable leaves the case.

I also had an oil leak from this area, which I suspected was from the gearbox output seal (part 17 in the gearbox diagram above), which is very buried! Nothing for it but to strip the clutch and alternator, remove the primary chain and sprockets, open the little hatch and remove the main drive chain and sprocket to reveal the seal. This can be removed by carefully screwing in a couple of wood screws and levering it out.

As well as the main seal I fitted a new front sprocket of the correct size (the one in there was too small) and this time used sealant on the splines to prevent a common source of oil leaks. I installed a new main drive chain. I refitted the clutch and alternator which was treated to a new bolt and grommet, and the primary chain was correctly tensioned up. It's very important to fully tighten the clutch and alternator nuts, and fit lock tab washers in good condition as if either of these come loose it would cause carnage. Finally, I'm pleased to say, no more oil leaks, at least from that area.

Other than very carefully installing the newly painted parts and treating the fuel tank to some new taps and trims, that was that it for spanner work. It just remains to show off some pictures of the stunning looking finished bike in the local bluebell woods, enjoy!

One more thing - I have been persuaded to run Bagheera at the Kop Hill Climb this year, 16/17 September 2023 near Princes Risborough. So assuming my entry is accepted and she feels like working that day you can  come and see me!

 TOTALS TO DATE: Hours: 190. Cost: £8300. Miles ridden: 700. Breakdowns: 5 (two serious)